Simple and Cozy Zipper Hoodie
Materials
- Pure Alpaca – yarn weight #1 (light fingering, my yarn is 17 wpi - read more about WPI/DPI in this article). Can be substituted to a yarn with the similar weight and WPI if the correct gauge is reached.
- Yarn Colors:
- Color A – Darker Brown
- Color B – Lighter Brown
- Color C – Beige
- Hook Sizes:
- 3.75 mm – for ribbing only
- 4.5 mm – for everything else
- Zipper: 18-21 inches (I used a 21-inch zipper and cut it down to about 18 inches after it was sewn in)
- Sewing needle and thread matching the three colors of yarn - for sewing facing and zipper to the garment
- Tapestry or yarn needle - for connecting large pieces of the garment
Construction
- Flat, Bottom-up - the body made into a vest with a hood in one piece.
- Sleeves are made separately, then attached.
- Facing is made separately, then zipper attached using facing.
Level
- Intermediate
- Predominantly double crochet, foundation single crochet, slip stitch, neck shaping, back loop only work for ribbing technique. Occasional decreases and increases, single crochet, half double crochet. Minor colorwork (switching colors at the end of rows).
Abbreviations and Stitches
American terminology
- fsc - foundation single crochet
- ch - chain
- scblo – single crochet in back loop only
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- ss – slip stitch
- dc2tog – double crochet two together
Gauge
4 x 4 inches = 18 dc x 11 rows
Swatch Pattern
Ch 30.
-
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 27 sts, turn.
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Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc here and throughout), dc in next 28 sts, turn.
- (Total: 29 dc)
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Repeat Row 2 until you reach 15 rows.
Measuring Gauge
- Block your gauge swatch before measuring.
- Measure your 4 x 4-inch gauge in the middle of the swatch.
- Do not measure on the edges, as they can stretch unevenly.
Garment Diagram
Instructions
(original in size M or bust 36-38, waist 30-32)
Bottom Ribbing:
- In Color A (darker brown), ch 16. Turn.
- Row 1: Ch 1, scblo in each st, turn. (Total: 15 scblo)
Repeat Row 1 for a total of 172 rows. Do not finish off.
Main Body:
- Row 1 (RS): Continue in Color A. Work on one side, perpendicular to ribbing. Work for 10 rows: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, turn. (Total: 172 dc)
Note: Switch to Color B (lighter brown) on the last step of the last dc of the last row.
- In Color B Work for 15 rows: (RS) ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, turn.
Switch to Color C (beige) on the last step of the last dc.
Right Front Panel:
In Color C
(Beige)
- Work for 15 rows, starting with WS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in 43 sts, turn.
Right Front Neck Shaping:
- Row 1 (RS): Ss in next 17 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 25 sts, turn.
- Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, turn.
- Row 3 (RS): Ss in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 20 sts, turn.
- Row 4 (WS): Ch 2, dc 17, dc2tog, turn.
- Row 5 (RS): Ss in next st, ch 2, dc in next 16 sts.
Finish off.
Left Front Panel:
In Color C
(Beige)
Looking at the RS of the fabric, count 43 sts from the left edge. Mark the 43rd st. Turn to WS.The marked st is your 1st st. Insert hook in this st.
- Work for 15 rows: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 43 sts, turn.
Left Front Neck Shaping:
- Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 23 sts, dc2tog, turn.
- Row 2 (WS): Ss in 1st dc, hdc in next st, dc to end of row (21 dc), turn.
- Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, turn.
- Row 4 (WS): Ss in 1st dc, hdc in next st, dc to end of row (17 dc), turn.
- Row 5 (RS): Ch 2, dc in next 16 sts.
Finish off.
Back Panel
In Color C
(Beige)
- On RS, work in remaining 86 sts for 18 rows: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, turn.
Back Panel Neck Shaping
Right Side
- Right Short Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 17 sts, turn.
- Right Short Row 2 (WS): Ss in next dc, ch 2, dc in next 16 sts.
Finish off.
Left Side
- Left Short Row 1: Working on RS, work either ch 2 or stdc into the 18th st from the left, dc in each st to end of row, turn.
- Left Short Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, dc in next 16 sts.
Finish off.
Assembly
- Sew shoulder seams together.
- Working on RS in Color C (Beige), sc in each st around neckline.
Finish off.
Hood
- Mark two middle sts in the neckline. These stitches define the midline of the hood.
All Sizes
- Row 1 (RS): Insert hook in 1st st, ch 2 (counts as dc), hdc in each st to end of row, turn.
(Total: 80 sts. Move midline markers to this row.) - Rows 2-10: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row. Move midline markers to this row.
- Rows 11-16: Ch 2, dc to 1st middle st, 2 dc in 1st middle marked st, 2 dc in 2nd middle marked st, dc to end of row. Move midline markers to two middle sts of this row.
- Next 20 rows: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn.
Finish off, leaving 18-22 inch tail. Fold the hood in half and sew the top together using the yarn tail and a yarn needle.
Sleeves
(Make 2)
Put on the sleeveless hoodie and measure the distance between the tip of the shoulder and the bone at the bend of your wrist. Reduce this distance by 1.5 inches (to allow for blocking and ease).
68 fdc (foundation dc) sts.
Sleeve Body
-
Rows 1-5: In Color C (Beige), ch 2 (counts as dc throughout), dc in each st to end of row, turn. Switch to Color B.
-
Row 6 (WS): In Color B, ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. (Total: 66 sts)
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Rows 7-11: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, turn.
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Row 12 (WS): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. (Total: 64 sts)
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Rows 13-15: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, turn.
-
Row 16 (WS): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. (Total: 62 sts)
-
Rows 17-19: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, turn.
-
Row 20 (WS): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. (Total: 60 sts)
Switch to Color A. -
Rows 21-23: In Color A, repeat Rows 17-19.
-
Repeat Rows 16-19 in Color A until you have 50 sts left.
-
Continue repeating Rows 17-19 until you reach the desired length (shoulder to wrist bone minus 1.5 inch).
-
Stop when the length corresponds to the number of inches you need.
Ensure both sleeves have the same number of rows (unless your arms require different lengths). -
Last Row: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, (dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts) repeat to end of row. (Total: 38 sts)
Do not finish off, continue to ribbing.
Cuff Ribbing
In Color A (Dark Brown), using smaller hook (3.75 mm), ch 16, turn.
Ribbing Rows:
- Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 14 sts, sl st in sleeve body.
- Row 2: Sl st in next st on sleeve body, turn, scblo in each st to end of row, turn.
- Row 3: Ch 1, 15 scblo, sl st in sleeve body.
- Row 4: Sl st in next st on sleeve body, turn, scblo in each st to end of row, turn.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until you reach the end of the cuff ribbing.
Finish off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the sleeve into a tube or use a separate yarn for sewing.
Facing for Inserting Zipper
(Make 2)
Using larger hook (4.5 mm) in Color A,Ch 7, turn.
- Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 4 sts, turn.
- Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 4 sts, turn.
Repeat Row 2 for a total of:- 17 rows in Color A
- 15 rows in Color B
- 15 rows in Color C
Finish off.
Finishing
Sew Sleeves into Tubes
- Use a yarn needle and matching yarn color.
- Sew on the RS of the fabric, using outside loops of stitches along the side.
- A whip stitch works well for this seam.
Note: To ensure you are on the RS, check the 1st row – dc stitches after ribbing should face RS on both the sleeves and body.
Attaching Sleeves to Body
- Begin at the armpit.
- Pin sleeve evenly to the armhole.
- Lay flat and use a whip stitch to connect the sleeve to the body.
- Sew sleeves onto the body using a yarn needle and same color yarn.
Before Attaching the Zipper
- Weave in all ends.
- Block the garment to achieve its final size and shape.
Inserting a Zipper
After blocking is done, it is time to insert the zipper into the garment.
Steps for Inserting the Zipper:
Wrong sides of Facing and Hoodie Front should face each other, and the colors of the Facing should match the colors of the Front Panels.
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Position the Zipper:
- Place the zipper between the Facing and the garment panels.
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Basting the Zipper:
- Lightly baste using a contrasting color sewing thread and a sewing needle. Or pin with the sewing pins.
- This helps keep the zipper in place before permanent stitching.
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Adjusting the Length:
- If the zipper is too long, fold the top inside the Facing.
- Cut off any excess length after permanent sewing.
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Avoid Puckering:
- Make sure to sew while the project is laying flat.
- Alternatively, place a flat object under your work to maintain even tension, such as a piece of a cardboard.
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Check the Fit:
- After basting/pinning, test the zipper to ensure it works smoothly and looks good.
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Final Stitching:
- Use matching color sewing thread and a sewing needle to permanently sew the zipper between the Facing and Front Panels.
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Finishing:
- Once the zipper is securely attached, remove the basting stitches or pins.
Tutorial for Facing and Sewing in the Zipper:
(Add a link or reference to a tutorial here, if available.)
By blocking, your crocheted garment will have a professional, polished appearance, fit better, and showcase your stitchwork beautifully!
We have an article about blocking that could be helpful for blocking this hoodie.
(Insert link to the article here.)
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